It’s high time I write an homage to the Austin of my day before it vanishes. I recently watched “Blood Simple” by the Coen brothers and was surprised by a scene shot from the top of Mount Bonnell facing west to complete green. Now it’s totally developed. There’s such buzz about how fabulous Austin is, how much it’s grown, and I realized it re-invents itself completely every decade. I arrived in January 1998 (after 1991 “Slackers” and 1993 “Dazed and Confused”) and left in August 2008, smack dab in the middle of the dot-com boom when the town was on the edge of becoming what it is today. People like to claim their time in Austin as The Best. As much as I loved my decade there, I don’t have a dog in that fight. I knew it was never MY town. I wasn’t born there. But Austin makes everyone feel it’s their own.
Many bones of Old Austin can still be found holding out like The Alamo while surrounded by new construction. It’s always been a town of contrasts – cowboys and hippies, politicians and beatniks, preppies and stoners – and it’s these dichotomies which make it so interesting. Plus it’s just an easy city. You can fly direct from JFK on JetBlue and have a bushel of queso, a peck of guacamole and a margarita at your service by lunchtime.
I have the good fortune of owning a camp on Lake Austin, a small house right on the water and just outta town. It was built in Steiner Ranch (when it was actually a ranch) with limestone left over from the construction of the Lake Austin Spa just down the road. The spa was built as a fishing camp in the 40s and voted in 2019 as the #1 Spa Destination in American by Conde Nast, a perfect example of the Austin boom. I mostly stay out at the lake when I visit, exploring the natural beauty surrounding the city and popping in town when the traffic dies down.
Mini adventures abound, day trips on which you can still catch a glimpse of the Way It Was. A solid plan is to hit the off-the-beaten-trail spots while everyone else in downtown. Visit during the South By Southwest Festival (SXSW) or the Austin City Limits Festival (ACL) but don’t do the festival. Take advantage while the crowds are gathered elsewhere. When they zig, you zag. I’ve shared some of my low-rollin’, old school favorites below, away from the clamor of downtown and arranged with geographic logic.
PERFECT DAZE
Sunday: Hippie Church at Maria’s Taco Xpress then Chicken Shit Bingo at Ginny’s Little Longhorn. Nearby notables are The Aristocrat Lounge (former Pink Poodle Bar) and Lala’s Little Nugget (year-round Christmas décor) on Justin Lane. Cap off your night with enchiladas and bowling at Dart Bowl.
University of Texas: See Santa Rita #1, the first oil well to tap into the Permian Basin in 1923 where has paid royalties to UT since. Check out the EVERYTHING’S BIGGER IN TEXAS football stadium. Catch the short film “The Star of Destiny” at the Texas History Museum. Have a Mad Dog Margarita at Texas Chili Parlor (for those who get a tear in their beer when you hear Guy Clark sing “Dublin Blues”). Finish up with a burger at Dirty Martin’s.
West Austin: stroll among free range peacocks at Mayfield Park, walk up Mount Bonnell for a gorgeous view, have a cold beer at Dry Creek Café and Boat Dock (an awesome dive bar still standing amid McMansions) then catch some sun at Ski Shores Café on the lake.
Lake Austin: Lunch at the Hula Hut then rent a boat (Austin Rental Boats or Lake Austin Party Boat Rentals) to cruise the 19 miles from dam to dam.
Lake Austin Spa Resort: Book the cheapest service (manicure) and use the spa facilities all day ($25 fee on weekends). Awesome indoor and outdoor pools/hot tub and a healthy lunch which actually tastes good. Then catch the sunset at The Oasis on Lake Travis.
Barton Creek Greenbelt: Park (and eat) at the original Tacodeli on Spyglass Drive and enter the trailhead behind it. Walk west towards Twin Falls or east towards Barton Springs.
ROAD TRIP Two you MUST do
Start out at Hamilton Pool in Dripping Springs (reservations required at parks.traviscountytx.gov) or Krause Springs in Spicewood, classic Texas swimming holes in limestone with unbelievable foliage and huge old trees. Words cannot describe. Bring a picnic, swimsuit and sneakers. Afterwards drive west to Luckenbach (see Wildseed Farms just past the Luckenbach turnoff on 290 for gorgeous fields of Texas wildflowers). Catch dinner on the way back to town at Salt Lick BBQ in Driftwood. Or check out Fredericksburg.
Tube the Guadalupe River. I use Rockin’ R River Rides or Texas Tubes in New Braunfels. Start the day floating lazily down the river and end it in Greune Hall (check schedule).
IN TOWN CLASSICS Do at your own risk during festivals
South Congress: Day stroll starts with coffee at Jo’s, folk art at Yard Dog, costumes at Lucy In Disguise With Diamonds, western wear at Allens Boots and food trucks galore. Night stroll to catch the bats fly at sunset from the bridge, dinner at Guero’s and music at The Continental Club (Jon D Graham at 10:30pm and James McMurtry at 11:59pm on Wednesdays).
Zilker Park/Barton Springs: Walk around the lake on the Lady Bird Johnson Trail then lounge at the best little swimming hole in Texas (constant 68 degrees). Seal the deal with a meal at Chuy’s or Shady Grove.
Sixth Streets Bars: Just don’t do it. If you must, do the Driskill Bar (upstairs in the back of the hotel). Do Rainey Street bars instead.
East Austin: Texas Two-Step lessons at The White Horse and drinks at Whisler’s (check out their traditional Oaxacan mezcal bar).
5th Street: Begin with margaritas and queso at El Arroyo (The Ditch) and see what the sign out front says (“The Tequila Diet: Lose 3 Days in a Week”…“Yeah I’m Into Fitness. Fitness Whole Taco In My Mouth”…“You Can’t Make Everyone Happy. You Aren’t Queso”…“I’m Super Lazy Today. It’s Like Normal Lazy, But I’m Wearing a Cape”)
Cross the street to the Mean Eyed Cat for a beer. Top off the night with dancing at Donn’s Depot.
South Lamar: Saxon Pub for live music (check schedule) and The Broken Spoke (A MUST) for western swing and cheeseburgers.
North Lamar: Waterloo Records – best music store ever. Crawfish (in season) at Shoal Creek Saloon. A fine grownup meal at Fonda San Miquel (reservations recommended and clothes required).
Deep Eddy Pool: take a few recovery laps, have a Bloody Mary at Deep Eddy Cabaret next door then more queso at Maudie’s on Fourth Street. That should cure what ails so you can begin again.
“Now tequila may be the favored beverage of outlaws, but that doesn’t mean it gives them preferential treatment. In fact, tequila probably has betrayed as many outlaws as has the central nervous system and dissatisfied wives. Tequila, scorpion honey, harsh dew of the doglands, essence of Aztec, crema de cacti; tequila, oily and thermal like the sun in solution; tequila, liquid geometry of passion; tequila, the buzzard god who copulates in midair with the ascending souls of dying virgins; tequila, firegut in the house of good taste; O tequila, savage water of sorcery, what confusion and mischief your sly, rebellious drops do generate! “
Tom Robbins
Still Life With Woodpecker
*For a great overview of Austin, read: “The City of the Eternal Boom” by Michael Hall. Texas Monthly. March 2016.
My Suburban Escapes 
Leave a comment